First-generation '65-'66 Mustang camber adjustment takes place at the upper control arm via shims at the two control-arm attachment points. ... Properly adjust the tie-rod ends and toe-in.

On most rack-and-pinion assemblies, the tie rod is rotated. The camber is adjusted using eccentrics located at the mounting points of the upper control arms (C).

Toe adjustments are made with the tie-rod ends for both solid axles and independents, ... the equipment required for home alignment is a caster/camber gauge and something to measure toe.

For camber adjustment, many cars use an offset bolt for one of the two that connect the strut to the wheel knuckle/housing. ... To correct this, I brought the car home, loosened the tie-rods, ...

An alignment should include a detailed chassis inspection where suspension and steering components are checked for abnormal wear. Ball joints, tie-rod ends, control arm bushings, spring perches ...

In a double-wishbone suspension system, the lower wishbone/tie rod mounted to the wheel carrier is left unchanged, but the upper wishbone, including a steering arm, adds an actuator.

I squirt a little on the tie-rod end threads, adjustable control arm threads, and camber bolts almost any time I’ve got my car on jacks. Keeping those parts clean makes them easier to adjust ...

My eyeballs told me I got -3 degrees of camber, which looks sick as heck, but was a bit more than I bargained for. Judging by the amount of extra tie rod I used, I gained about 20mm of track width ...

Furthermore, a wonky alignment could mean wear and tear on various suspension and steering components, like bad ball joints, leaky dampers, worn tie rods, or a damaged steering rack.