Goat milk has been used for centuries to soothe ... On the milking stand, Gauland can recognise all the milking girls by their udders. She talks gently to Bella, Tourmaline, Yahara, Birdie ...

T he goat had a resigned look in her eyes as the rancher pressed her udder and aimed a stream of milk into a tall cup. Sunrise needled through the misty air. The smell of manure was almost tactile ...