Vintage Guerlain advertisements. Longtime devotees will recall Jacques Guerlain's beloved Mitsouko fragrance—named for a heroine in La Bataille—which celebrates its 90th anniversary this year.

HARAD'S TAKE: "In the pantheon of iconic leather perfumes only Cuir de Russie ... and give it plenty of time to unfold." Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum spray, $118, saks.com.

I still remember the first fragrance that changed my life ... I would sneak spritzes from her bottle of Mitsouko too – a spiced woody Guerlain scent combining rose, ylang-ylang, vetiver ...

One reason is the classification of some key ingredients, such as oakmoss – found in perfumes including Guerlain’s Mitsouko – is that they are allergenic. Other restrictions are now being ...

“[IFRA has] been severely restricting loads of things that have been in perfumes for decades and caused nobody any noticeable harm …Mitsouko by Guerlain and Joy by Jean Patou, two classics ...